Today I'm going to Nagoya to see Sumo. I got home late from the izakaya last night. I figured I would only be able to sleep about 3 or 4 hours because of jetlag. Of course, I slept 5. It was a bit of a rushed morning. Mrs Obata prepard a great breakfast: rice, miso soup, sweet potato, and aji. I showered and threw clothes, laptop, etc. into my bag and Mr. Obata drove me to the train station. My morning communte was going to be a little complicated. Yokonouchi station (I think that was the name) to Kawasaki on a local train, switch trains and go to Shinagawa, then switch trains to Shinkansen. Oversleeping, I was a little worried. As the Sumo tournament has already started (matches take place every day for 15 days) tickets cannot bepurchased online or by phone, only at the Aichiken Taiikukan (Aichi Prefectural Gymnasium) in Nagoya. Yesterday, I was told that tickets sold out by 1pm. My Shinkansen ticket had me arriving in Nagoya at 12:34. The a cab ride to the Taiikiukan would take about 10 minutes. That would be cutting it close, if not being too late. Taku-san, the izakaya owner had given me a note to hand to the taxi driver, with the Taiikukan name written in kanji, in case I had any problems. That was very thoughtful of him.
At Kawasaki, I was looking at the various signs wondering which platform I needed to go to to switch to the train bound for Shinagawa, when a salaryman (Japanese businessman) appraoached me and asked "Can I help you?" Without thinking, I switched back to English and said I was going to Shinagawa. He told me which track to go to and how to get there, and even told my an alternate train I could take, thought it would not be as fast as the first. I thanked him and joined the sea of people moving through the station, only realizing too late that I had completely taken for granted that he was communicating with me in English. The Japanese are always very supportive of foriegners who speak even a few words of English. This trip I have been trying to be as supportive of those I meet who speak English.
At Shinagawa I decided to try to switch to an earlier train, if one was available. That gave my Japanese langauge skills a good workout. I was able to switch to a 10:34 train, which would arrive in Nagoya at 12:09. It was 10:25 so of course, I thought, "Good. I have time to buy some food for the train."
The large train stations around Tokyo, especially ones where would can meet the Shinkansen have a wide variety of shops at which to buy food. It's like a food court at the mall, but much larger (and of substantially higher quality). Across from the ticketing machines was an area with a higher class look, kind of like Tysons II, The Galleria. Some shops sold traditional foods like onigiri (rice balls with various flavors and ingredients), while others sold French-style confectionaries. I really should have taken a picture. I've been forgetting to take pictures a lot this trip. It's very out of character for me, especially if you've seen the hundreds of photos I've taken on other trips. Anyway, first I bought half moon crackers with a sweet filling to give to the family I was meeting in Nagoya. Then, I was caught between browsing the various foods and getting to my train on time. Eventually, I bought three onigiri: shouyu (soy sauce), sake (salmon, with the rice wrapped in seaweed, and daikon (a Japanese radish, one of the staples of Japanese cuisine). I also bought mochi (small balls of rice, which is pounded until it has a chewy consistency) dusted with a sweet powder.
Then I looked at a clock. 10:30!!! I remembered the JR attendant saying my train was at track "Ni ju nani nani..." (twenty-something). I looked at the signs and saw that I was in the section of the station with tracks in the teens. I ran for the sign that said Shinkansen. It's very convienent that at almost all JR stations in Japan and most of the subway stations in larger cities, the signs are in both Japanese and English. I made it to the platform at 10:33. And 30 seconds later, the train arrived. Remember, in Japan you can set your watch by train arrivals. Luckily, I was not far from my particular car in the train. Don't forget that Shinkansen can be over 1,200 feet long!
Now, I am watching cities, towns, and the countryside fly by as Nozomi runs along the mountainous southern coast of Japan. It really is beautiful country. Currently in Japan it is tsuyu, the rainy season. Thus, it is a very humid time of year. I saw a hygrometer (which measures humidity). It was pegged at 90%. I don't think it was broken. I will never complain about the humidity in DC again. Although it is more humid here, it's a little cooler, which creates a very different feeling. You don't feel as drained by the weather here as you do in DC. But you do feel very damp. I think the Japanese must look as forward to autumn as we do in the mid-Atlantic.
So what have I been doing since I got here?
First let me tell you what I have not been doing. I have not been suffereing from jetlag. What a great feeling! There were a couple hours yesterday afternoon when I sudedenly felt tired and a little dreamy. But it passed and I was back on track. The first night here I only slept 3 hours, simply because that's all my body wanted to sleep. This might be in part of flying business class. I would like to test that theory again. However, given the prohibitive cost of flying business class (about $7,000), this may be a bit difficult. Perhaps I can get a grant from NIH to study this in more detail. Perhaps I will open this study to participation by friends and family. Anyone inyterested?
Yesterday, I spent the day with Naoki, the son of the family we are staying with. He graciously took a day off from the salon he runs to take me around Tokyo. We took the train to Okubo to eat ramen at his favotire ramen-ya. I had ketsumen, the current ramen in fashion in Tokyo. The noodles are served seperately, with the thick soup base in a smaller bowl used for dipping. It had a very delicious flavor, though I couldn't place all of the ingredients. It was slightly salty, with a somewhat peppery heat. Very savory. Pork and bamboo shoots accompained the base. The corner stall, in which patrons sit at an L-shaped counter was full, with a line ringing the counter. We waited about 10 minutes before being seated. After lunch, we went to a CD store so I could by a couple of CD's by Japanese bands I listen to. However, we were told that those CD's were not in stock. This conversation was repeated several times yesterday. Appearently, my taste in Japanese music can be as obscure as my taste in American music.
Then we went to Shinjuku... and Misdo. From the 2005 blog, you many remember that Mister Donut is alive and well and living happily in Japan. Most of the reason I love Misdo is that the dounts are much lighter than say, Dunkin Donuts. You can eat 2 or 3 and not feel like you have a rock in your stomach. I was thus very surprised to learn that a Krispy Creme donut shop had opened in Tokyo. Krispy Creme in Japan!?! Everyone knows that Krispy Creme donuts are as heavy and sugary as scientificly possible.
We went to a guitar shop, where I played a Takamine guitar with an absolutly beautiful, rich sound. And a rich price as well. After that we went to a bookstore, where I bought some sheet music.
Nagoya update:
I'm in my hotel room at the Toyoko Inn in Nagoya. Sumo was great! My post will have to wait until tomorrow. Right now, I need a bath and sleep. And I still have to upload pictures. Well, maybe the photos will wait until tomorrow.